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Z(it) Happens / Acne 101

Breaking Out or Purging? Here’s How to Tell — and What to Do About It

11 June, 2025

by Jenna Curcio

You finally commit to a skincare routine — maybe it's your first dip into a retinoid, or you’re flirting with exfoliating acids — and boom: your face suddenly switches up on you. You’re spiraling. Is it a skin purge? A breakout? Is your barrier about to disown you?

Take a breath. This might actually be a good sign.

A skin purge happens when actives like retinoids or BHAs speed up cellular turnover and push all the junk (clogged pores, micro-breakouts, bad decisions) to the surface. It’s temporary. It’s annoying. But it can be a turning point if you know how to ride it out.

Wait — What’s a Skin Purge?

Think of it as a spring cleaning for your pores. When you start using ingredients that boost cellular turnover (like retinoids, acids, or benzoyl peroxide), your skin starts shedding dead cells faster. That means the breakouts that were already forming underneath show up earlier—and sometimes all at once.

The good news: they would’ve come eventually. You’re just on fast-forward now.


Purge vs. Breakout: What’s the Difference?

If you just introduced something new and your skin’s freaking out, here’s how to decode it:

Probably a purge if...

  • It started 1–2 weeks after adding something with active ingredients

  • The breakouts are in your usual acne zones

  • Pimples pop up and fade faster than usual

Probably a breakout if...

  • You’re reacting in totally new places (like cheeks or neck)

  • Breakouts feel itchy, rashy, or inflamed

  • There’s no improvement after 6–8 weeks

If you’re unsure, simplify your routine and watch how your skin responds. If things get worse and weird, it might be time to cut something out or call in a derm.


How to Get Through It

Strip Your Routine Down

This is not the moment for a 10-step lineup. Keep it tight:

Space Out Your Actives

Your skin is not a lab experiment. Start slow: 1–2 nights a week, and build up. You can even try a skin cycling rhythm — exfoliate one night, treat another, rest two nights.

Consistency > intensity.

Soothe the Drama

If your skin is flaring, don’t reach for every product in your cabinet. Try:

No harsh scrubs. No wishful thinking.

Know When to Check In

A purge should settle down in 4 – 6 weeks. If your skin’s getting worse, or just not getting better, it’s totally valid to hit pause and consult a board-certified derm.


This Is Just a Phase

Dealing with a skin purge is often a sign that your skin is adjusting, not revolting. Ride it out with a little patience, a lot of barrier support, and a streamlined routine that knows what it’s doing.

You’re not ruining your skin. You’re learning it. And it’s allowed to be a little messy on the way to clarity.

Author

Jenna Curcio

Ciao, I’m Jenna :) I’m a writer and brand strategist with 6+ years of experience telling stories in the beauty world — both professionally and personally. After years of dealing with acne, I know how overwhelming and emotional the skincare journey can be. I’m here to make it feel a little less confusing and a lot more human.

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