
How to Power Through a Purge (Without Giving Up on Your Routine)
By Sarina Rubin
June 11, 2025
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You finally commit to a new skincare routine—one that’s designed for your acne-prone skin, filled with clinically backed actives—and then… your breakouts get worse.
Sound familiar?
This frustrating phenomenon is called a skin purge—and it’s more common (and temporary) than you think. If your skin seems to be “freaking out” after starting a new skincare product like a retinoid or salicylic acid, there’s a good chance it’s not a setback—it’s a process.
Let’s walk through what’s happening, how to tell the difference between the purging process vs. breaking out, and how to power through a purge with your skin (and sanity) intact.
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What Is Skin Purging?
Skin purging happens when you start using an active ingredient that speeds up skin cell turnover—bringing dead skin cells and congestion to the surface faster than usual.
It’s common with:
-
Retinoids (like tretinoin or adapalene)
Exfoliating acids (like salicylic acid, mandelic acid, or AHAs)
Benzoyl peroxide
These ingredients push pre-existing clogs (aka microcomedones) to the surface of the skin, which can temporarily increase acne breakouts before things get better.
Tip: Think of it as a detox—not a reaction.
How to Tell If It’s a Purge or a Breakout
✅ You’re probably in a purging period if:
- You just started a new active ingredient that increases cell turnover.
- Breakouts are happening in areas where you normally get acne.
- Pimples are coming and going faster than usual.
- The purging started within the first 1-4 weeks of use.
❌ It might be a breakout or reaction if:
- You're breaking out in new areas (like the cheeks when you usually get chin acne)
- The acne looks inflamed, itchy, or rashy
- You’re seeing no improvement after 6-8 weeks
- You added too many new products at once
Tip: A skin reaction that appears in new areas or causes itching may indicate an allergic reaction or sensitivity to new ingredients rather than a purge.
What to Expect During a Purge
What does skin purging look like? Everyone’s purge is different, but one common side effect is a temporary flare-up in breakouts. Here’s a general timeline:
- Weeks 1-2: You may notice small whiteheads, bumps, or inflamed pimples as the dead cells and buildup rise to the surface.
- Weeks 3-4: Skin may feel a bit dry or irritated as it adjusts.
- Weeks 5-6+: Breakouts start to lessen; texture and tone improve.
Good to know: The key is consistency—not perfection. Progress takes time, especially with acne-prone skin.
How to Power Through a Purge Without Quitting
1. Simplify Your Routine
Now is not the time to add more actives or layer on five products. Stick to a simple acne-safe foundation:
- Gentle cleansers (no scrubs)
- Active treatment (1 active ingredient—exfoliant or retinoid—not both)
- Barrier-supportive moisturizer to avoid worsening dry skin
- Non-comedogenic sunscreen
Bonus: Keeping it simple also helps you figure out which product is doing what.
2. Space Out Application
Using actives, like chemical exfoliants and topical retinoids every other night—or even just twice a week—can ease irritation while still helping your skin adjust.
Try a skin cycling approach:
- Night 1: Exfoliate
- Night 2: Retinoid
- Nights 3-4: Recovery and hydration
Tip: Gradually increase frequency as your skin builds tolerance.
3. Soothe, Don’t Strip
Purging doesn’t mean you need to “dry out” your skin. Keeping the skin barrier intact is important for minimizing side effects and achieving clearer skin over time.
✅ Look for calming, acne-safe ingredients like:
- Niacinamide
- Centella asiatica
- Aloe vera
- Squalane
-
Ceramides
🚫 Skip:
- Scrubs
- Fragrance
- Harsh toners
- New makeup or heavy creams
4. Use Ice or Pimple Patches (Smartly)
To manage redness and swelling during a purge:
- Ice rollers or clean, wrapped ice cubes can help reduce inflammation.
- Hydrocolloid patches help protect and speed up the healing of whiteheads.
- Spot treatments like sulfur or salicylic acid can be used—sparingly—alongside acne-safe formulas with azelaic acid or hyaluronic acid to help soothe and hydrate.
Best practice: Avoid layering too many strong actives. Less is more.
5. Stay the Course (Unless Something Feels Really Wrong)
Purging is temporary. Sticking with your routine for at least 6-8 weeks is key to seeing results.
But if you’re experiencing:
- Painful, cystic acne breakouts in new areas
- A sudden flare-up of itching, swelling, or burning
- No signs of improvement after 8+ weeks
…your skin might be reacting to specific ingredients in the new treatment, or there could be a comedogenic ingredient hiding somewhere in your routine. Either way, it’s worth consulting with a board-certified dermatologist to reassess.
The Takeaway: Don’t Let the Purge Stop Your Progress
Yes, purging is frustrating, but it’s also a sign that something is shifting. Monitor your skin’s adjustment and stay focused on your long-term skincare goals—not overnight results.
By giving your skin time to adjust, supporting your barrier, and staying consistent with a thoughtful, acne-safe routine, you can come out on the other side.
Remember, progress > perfection. You've got this.